How to Install Double Barn Doors
Why Barn Doors – We have an extra room in our basement with a large, 5’x7’ opening without a door. Occasionally we use this area as a spare bedroom for guests and wanted to add privacy with a door. We chose barn doors to add style and function to our space.
This is a supplemental guide to provided instructions – Single barn doors are popular, but double barn doors are slightly more complex and most “how to” videos only cover a single door. The opening for our space required a double barn door due to its size. I am sharing my experience because the instructions lacked detail and there are few resources for “how to assemble double barn doors.”
See tips in bold for insights not found in the instruction manual.
Materials & Tools
• Barn door/kit – I used a pre-stained Double Barn Door kit.
• Barn door hardware kit (if not included).
• 2 Handles (if not included). I used 9” Rod Iron Gate Pulls.
• Lumber for header, 1’x4” cut to track length.
• Paint or Stain (for header or barn doors).
• Pencil
• Level
• Tape measure
• Stud finder
- Philips screwdriver
- Power drill
- Drill bits
- Adjustable wrench
- Socket wrench set
- Speed Square
- Wood screws 2”
- Step ladder
Installation Instructions for Double Barn Door
1. Check your space
Measure opening – Width: Make sure door is big enough to cover the opening. The door should have 1”-2” of overhang on either side of opening. Height: Door should be ~1/2” above floor and be tall enough to overhang the top of the opening. Track will be placed a couple inches above opening depending on hardware kit used, so make sure your ceiling height can accommodate the door + track.
Measure track space – Make sure there’s enough space for the tracks. Double doors need track space on each side of opening. Each track generally ranges in size from 5’-8’ depending on door size.
Check obstructions – Make sure there’s enough space for door to slide along wall. Light fixtures, switches, heating/cooling controls, & trim are common obstructions. You need ~1” of space between wall and door, also dependent on hardware kit.
2. Choose your barn door
I used a Double Barn Door kit from The Home Depot, but you can also build your own if you’re handy and want a more custom look.
If you go with a single barn door, here is a helpful “how-to” Home Depot Video.
3. Assemble barn doors
Our kit came with barn doors that were not assembled, so I needed to put them together.
Tip: Watch out for beveled edges to make sure you keep all “like” sides of the wood together. There is nothing that mentions this in the instructions, so if you’re not careful you could put non-beveled edges next to beveled edges which looks odd.
Beveled Edge keep “like” sides of wood together
4. Locate & mark studs above door opening
Use stud finder to mark placement of wall studs about 3”-4” above door opening, marking with pencil. Mark each stud along the length of track. You need to do this to know where to fasten track or backer board to wall. For double doors you need to do this on each side of opening.
5. Determine if you need a backer board
Tip: How to determine backer board need. A backer board is needed if…
1) You need more space to accommodate trim or…
2) If wall studs do not align with screw hole spacing on the track.
In my situation, the track holes did not align to wall studs so I needed a backer board.
- Measure stud placements – Do these align to the holes of the track? If no, you need a backer.Write down measurements as you’ll need to transfer the spacing to backer board in #5 below.
- Buy 1” x 4” backer board(s) – I bought two 1”x4” 8ft premium common board because it was straight and free of knots. It was also only $1 more than regular 1”x4” furring strip boards.
- Cut backer board to length of track. I added an inch on the length to allow the board to overhang track a bit; looks more visually appealing than flush alignment.
- Paint/stain backer board – Choose color that matches wall color, trim or barn door. Paint the board and allow to dry.
- Transfer measured stud placements to backer board – Take stud measurements from #1 above and market these on the backer board. Mark two holes for each stud placement about 1.5” apart. Drill two holes for each measured stud placement which will be used for mounting board to wall.
- Transfer holes on the track to backer board – Place track on backer board to use as stencil. Using a pencil, mark each hole along track on backer board. Remove track from board and drill holes using drill bit size appropriate for provided anchor bolts.
Painted Backer Board Drilled 2 holes per measured stud placement Transfer holes on the track to backer board
6. Attach backer board & track on wall
- Determine wall placement – Align center of board to where instructions call for track placement.
- Fasten to wall – Secure one end to the studs with a wood screw. Keep board level and screw wood screws into drilled holes aligned to marked wall studs from step 4. Ideally have someone help hold the board as you install.
- Fill & paint screw placements – Use wood filler and paint to cover screw heads.
- Fasten track to backer – Align track fastening holes with previously drilled backer board holes. Use included spacers, lag bolts and washers to fasten track to the board. Keep track level and tighten each bolt with a wrench. If not using a backer board, simply fasten directly to marked wall studs.
Fasten Backer Board to Wall Fill & Paint Screw Placements Fasten Track to Backer Board
7. Install stoppers on track
Slide each stopper on end of track and fasten with provided hardware.
Tip: Adjust placement based on door size & desired opening size.
I adjusted to where doors fully open & align with space opening.
8. Attach rollers to door
Follow manufactures instructions for attaching to the door, templates and instructions are generally included in the hardware kit. Use a square to make sure straps are straight.
Measure & Mark Roller Placement Tip: Drill Holes Slightly Larger to Allow for Leveling Adjustments
Tip: Drill pilot holes slightly larger to allow you to adjust door if needed. With two doors, any variation in hanger placement will leave a gap between doors when closed. A larger pilot hole allows for adjustment of hangers to plum doors when shut.
9. Attach door handle with screws or bolts
Place ~36” above floor. Note, some kits DO NOT include handles; I purchased two 9” Rod Iron Gate Pulls separately. Also, my doors were 84” tall, so I went with a large handle.
Tip: Get large handles – Most handles in the hardware section are small and since I was going with a rustic look on large doors, I chose a larger handle.
10. Fasten anti jump discs to door
Follow manufacturer’s instructions. These help keep wheels on track.
11. Attach door to track
Lift door and rest wheels on track. Test to make sure it slides properly.
12. Fasten door slides to floor
Follow manufacturer’s instructions. These keep door from swinging.
13. Final check
Make sure door opens and closes smoothly and stoppers prevent door from going off the track.
Tip: Crack a cold one and admire a job well done!
Go Full Dad Mode: Tips not found in instructions
1. Watch out for beveled edges. Keep all “like” sides of wood together (bevel + bevel, non-bevel + non-bevel).
2. Use a backer board if wall studs do not align to track holes.
3. Adjust stopper placement to desired door opening width.
4. Get large handles. Buy door handles if they are not included and get a large size.
5. Drill pilot holes slightly larger than needed so you can adjust doors to be plum when shut.
6. Crack a cold one and admire a job well done!
I shared this as there are few resources available to help with double barn door assembly. Hopefully the tips save you extra trips to the hardware store. Feel free to add questions in the comments section, or additional tips you found helpful for your project.
Thanks for reading,
Britt